Fall 2023 Bike Tour: GAP/C&O Day 3 – Rockwood, PA to Cumberland, MD

Today started with a wet beginning. For our first 10 miles or so, we were rained on. However, after the rain ended, the rest of the weather today was beautiful with temps in the 70s-80s and mostly blue skies.

A rainy start in Rockwood

This section, between Rockwood and Cumberland, is perhaps my favorite part of the Great Allegheny Passage. There are wonderful areas of trees, fantastic views, tunnels, bridges, and the accomplishment of reaching the Continental Divide.

The longest bridge on the GAP is the Salisbury Viaduct. In my opinion, there aren’t any cycling path bridges better that I’ve crossed. I’ve been here several times, but it never gets old. Spanning the Casselman River, CSX rails, and the road below. The views are fantastic.

Just east of the viaduct is the town of Meyersdale, PA. This neat little town is also the home of two really good restaurants. We went to Donge’s drive in to get a delicious breakfast. We sat right behind the cook at the grill and struck up a nice conversation while she made our breakfast. I had eggs, dry toast, and deeeelishous home fries.

When we started in Pittsburgh, we had been trying to get a picture of our friend Billy printed to take along with us since he couldn’t make it in person. We have been affectionately calling the idea “Flat Billy”. Today we decided just to take his digital picture with us and send him texts with them. You see him with us at breakfast below. We miss you, Billy!

Meyersdale is down below the trail, so we climbed back up to the trailhead, spent some time in the visitor center museum, and then pressed on towards the Continental Divide.

Just a few more miles took us to the top of the ride. We stopped and took a few pictures at the divide before heading down towards Cumberland.

The ride down from the divide to Cumberland is about 20+ miles of gentle downhill grade. These last miles were relatively easy.

The longest tunnel on the GAP is the Big Savage Tunnel. Long and dark, it takes a few minutes to ride through it and you need a headlight to see well. It is also nice and cool inside.

Emerging from the tunnel’s southeast exit, you are treated to wonderful views of the valley below. The skies were clear today and you could see quite a distance and the layers of mountains in the distance.

A few miles later we came to the Mason-Dixon Line, the dividing line between the North and the South, between Pennsylvania and Maryland.

After a few pictures, we pressed on to Frostburg, MD. There’s a set of switchbacks you can ride up to get to the train station at the top. There is a tourist train that runs from Frostburg down to Cumberland. The train was waiting at the top when we arrived.

We also noticed a new thing: some four wheeled pedal carts that you can pay to ride down the rails to various destinations, including as far as Cumberland. We all decided that it looked like a LOT of fun. We don’t have time to do it, but we think it might be something to do in the future.

We arrived in Cumberland and the end of the Great Allegheny Passage! Tomorrow we continue with the C&O Canal path on towards Washington DC.

I checked and got quickly washed up, then walked about 1 mile, nearly all uphill (!) to get to mass. After mass, I walked back and met Zubby and JB at the Crabby Pig for dinner. Ribs hit the spot.

Looking outside, it is raining “cats and dogs” tonight. I’m assuming that tomorrow’s ride on the C&O will start out with lots of mud. We have a long ride to get to Hancock MD tomorrow. Time for a good night’s sleep.

Today’s stats: 47 miles, zero tubes, zero tires, zero broken spokes, and zero bandaids. It was a wonderful and uneventful day on the GAP!

May the Lord bless you and keep you.

Peace,
— Dcn. Matt