Fall 2023 Bike Tour: GAP/C&O Day 3 – Rockwood, PA to Cumberland, MD

Today started with a wet beginning. For our first 10 miles or so, we were rained on. However, after the rain ended, the rest of the weather today was beautiful with temps in the 70s-80s and mostly blue skies.

A rainy start in Rockwood

This section, between Rockwood and Cumberland, is perhaps my favorite part of the Great Allegheny Passage. There are wonderful areas of trees, fantastic views, tunnels, bridges, and the accomplishment of reaching the Continental Divide.

The longest bridge on the GAP is the Salisbury Viaduct. In my opinion, there aren’t any cycling path bridges better that I’ve crossed. I’ve been here several times, but it never gets old. Spanning the Casselman River, CSX rails, and the road below. The views are fantastic.

Just east of the viaduct is the town of Meyersdale, PA. This neat little town is also the home of two really good restaurants. We went to Donge’s drive in to get a delicious breakfast. We sat right behind the cook at the grill and struck up a nice conversation while she made our breakfast. I had eggs, dry toast, and deeeelishous home fries.

When we started in Pittsburgh, we had been trying to get a picture of our friend Billy printed to take along with us since he couldn’t make it in person. We have been affectionately calling the idea “Flat Billy”. Today we decided just to take his digital picture with us and send him texts with them. You see him with us at breakfast below. We miss you, Billy!

Meyersdale is down below the trail, so we climbed back up to the trailhead, spent some time in the visitor center museum, and then pressed on towards the Continental Divide.

Just a few more miles took us to the top of the ride. We stopped and took a few pictures at the divide before heading down towards Cumberland.

The ride down from the divide to Cumberland is about 20+ miles of gentle downhill grade. These last miles were relatively easy.

The longest tunnel on the GAP is the Big Savage Tunnel. Long and dark, it takes a few minutes to ride through it and you need a headlight to see well. It is also nice and cool inside.

Emerging from the tunnel’s southeast exit, you are treated to wonderful views of the valley below. The skies were clear today and you could see quite a distance and the layers of mountains in the distance.

A few miles later we came to the Mason-Dixon Line, the dividing line between the North and the South, between Pennsylvania and Maryland.

After a few pictures, we pressed on to Frostburg, MD. There’s a set of switchbacks you can ride up to get to the train station at the top. There is a tourist train that runs from Frostburg down to Cumberland. The train was waiting at the top when we arrived.

We also noticed a new thing: some four wheeled pedal carts that you can pay to ride down the rails to various destinations, including as far as Cumberland. We all decided that it looked like a LOT of fun. We don’t have time to do it, but we think it might be something to do in the future.

We arrived in Cumberland and the end of the Great Allegheny Passage! Tomorrow we continue with the C&O Canal path on towards Washington DC.

I checked and got quickly washed up, then walked about 1 mile, nearly all uphill (!) to get to mass. After mass, I walked back and met Zubby and JB at the Crabby Pig for dinner. Ribs hit the spot.

Looking outside, it is raining “cats and dogs” tonight. I’m assuming that tomorrow’s ride on the C&O will start out with lots of mud. We have a long ride to get to Hancock MD tomorrow. Time for a good night’s sleep.

Today’s stats: 47 miles, zero tubes, zero tires, zero broken spokes, and zero bandaids. It was a wonderful and uneventful day on the GAP!

May the Lord bless you and keep you.

Peace,
— Dcn. Matt

Fall 2023 Bike Tour: GAP/C&O Day 1 – “Of Tubes and Men”

We started our trek eastward today with a standard issue hotel breakfast. Nothing great, nothing bad. Calories.

Leaving the Hampton Inn, we made our way easily down to the point, which is the park where the confluence of the Monongahela, Allegheny, form into the Ohio river. The weather felt cool and comfortable. At the point, we met up with a group of 7 friends who are journeying to DC as well. Great people and we’ve crossed their paths a few more times.

The start of our journey
The Point

We stopped by PPG Place on our way out of town. It’s a neat set of buildings covered in glass. There are fountains and some sculptures. The other reason we stopped there is that the Mon Wharf part of the GAP was closed for construction, so we took surface streets to get a couple off miles away from the point.

PPG Place

Only a few miles in, we had our first mechanical failure. Just before reaching the Hot Metal bridge, JB’s bike had a flat tire. We also had our first injury – I pinched my finger helping him and got an instantaneous blood blister on my finger. JB’s problem was that the rim tape on his nearly 30 year old bike was, well, 30 years old. There was an REI store nearby so we went by and did some bike wandering of the Southside until the store opened at 10A. $6 later, new rim tape for his bike. Tube count +1.

Tube +1
View from the Hot Metal bridge

When we went into REI, I looked up and said to myself “those clouds up there look kinda dark”. When I came out of REI a few minutes later, it was raining very hard. Donning my rain coat, we got back on the trail and continued eastbound.

Lots of liquid sunshine

One of the nice things about the GAP is that you leave a very urban setting and gradually end up in some very pretty and remote areas. Once we arrived in McKeesport, we mostly left behind the bustle and noise of the city. For the rest of the GAP portion of the trip, we will be on a very quiet bike path that passes through small towns.

The rain kept with us for quite a while until we made it to West Newton. In West Newton, there is a neat place where a bike shop is in the basement and a restaurant is above: The Trailside. We went in for lunch and had a very good meal. Our new friends were just finishing lunch there too. By the time lunch was over, the rain had passed and we were able to proceed without our rain coats.

Pressing eastbound was somewhat uneventful… for a while. Then we noticed that Zubby had a flat tire. Looking at his tire up close, there was no tread left. Zero. He had squeezed every last mile out of the rear tire, and a few more than he should have. Some sort of tiny pebble had punctured the tire and tube. Tube count +1 = 2.

A few miles later, another flat. Tube count +2 = 3 total. We did a closer inspection and decided to put a “tire boot” on the inside of his tire. It is an emergency Mylar glue patch that is meant to strengthen a tire. We also put a dollar bill over it for good measure. Dollar bills make a great emergency patch because the fabric of the bill is very strong. We had hoped to replace the tire when we arrived in Connellsville, but the bike shop here is closed for the week. We have decided to try to nurse him along until we get to Ohiopyle tomorrow and visit the bike shop there.

After arriving at the Comfort Inn in Connellsville, we scrubbed down and walked to a local restaurant for dinner. Our new friends from Pittsburgh were at the restaurant too. Veggie pasta and a couple of local hard ciders hit the spot. Mmm mmm.

Mmmmm dinner

Settling in for the evening and looking forward to a nice day tomorrow. Next stop, Rockwood! Hoping that our tire boot gets Zubby safely to Ohiopyle!

Today’s stats: 64 miles, 5:48 riding time, 3 tubes used for flat repair, 1 new set of rim tape, and one bandaid for my finger.

Until tomorrow, may the Lord keep you, and us, safe.

Peace!
— Dcn. Matt

Funny bush on the side of the trail

Fall 2023 Bike Tour: GAP/C&O Day 0

Pittsburgh, PA

We arrived today in Pittsburgh for a 7 day ride along very familiar territory: The Great Allegheny Passage and the C&O Canal. We’ll begin tomorrow morning in downtown Pittsburgh and arrive next Wednesday in Washington, DC. I have done this route a few times, but my two riding buddies have not.

There were supposed to be four of us, but late last night, we received some sad news that one of our friends would not be able to join us due to a death in the family.

Tomorrow we head east. We will spend three days on the GAP, followed by four days on the C&O with some sightseeing along the way.

Heading to bed. More tomorrow.

Peace!