2012 Bike Sojourn – Day 5 45 miles from Little Orleans to Cumberland MD

Today was another very hot day: high 90s and heat index over 100. I rode with Jim again today and we got out very early to beat the heat.

Last night was super hot and difficult to sleep, but I did eek out a few good hours of sleep.

We wound past Bill’s place and got right to the ride on the towpath, bidding a nice farewell to Little Orleans.

The first hi light of today’s ride was going through the Paw Paw tunnel. You can see a picture of me standing atop the entrance.

This amazing structure was tunneled through a mountain to allow the canal to go through and save several miles of going around. It was estimated that it was going to take 2 years to tunnel it out, but it ended up taking 14 years to create this amazing tunnel! The tunnel is only wide enough for one barge and mule, so if two barges needed to pass, they had to be agreeable to take turns … which wasn’t always the case and could jam up boat traffic.

The tunnel is over 3,100 feet long (!) and lined with a brick archway. I’d guess millions of bricks are in that structure. We had to dismount and walk our bikes along the mule path inside the tunnel, navigating by headlight. Without a light source, it is pitch black. One other nice part: it was nice and cool inside – a great break from the heat!

Most of the rest of the ride was beautiful and uneventful. Many miles of countryside and spectacular views. The shady lengths were nice, and the sun was very toasty.

The second hi light was that we arrived in Cumberland MD at lunchtime. This means we are more than half way done at 185 miles! It also means that we say goodbye to the C&O canal and begin riding on the Great Allegheny Passage: a rail-trail that runs all the way into Pittsburgh. I’m told that the surface is much better than the C&O, so I am looking forward to that.

One more great surprise was awaiting me in Cumberland. After the last two days of miserable heat for camping, I asked Stephanie to try to get me a hotel room. She delivered! A clean, air-conditioned, great room at the Fairfield Inn greeted me and really lifted my spirits! Thanks Steph!!!! I washed my clothes and myself, and loaded up on food. I’m SOOO looking forward to a real bed tonight.

Tomorrow is the most difficult day: 62 miles, including a climb up to the Eastern Continental Divide at around 2,000 feet of climb.

My back is still a bit sore, but not terrible. Some Alleve and rest tonight should help.

Peace!
– Dc. Matt

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2012 Bike Sojourn – Day 4 42 miles from Williamsport MD to Little Orleans

2012 Bike Sojourn – Day 4
42 miles from Williamsport MD to Little Orleans

It was super hot today – upper 90s. Heat index near 100. I broke camp very early and joined up with Jim, a guy I met yesterday. We got out before breakfast was served to try to avoid the worst of the heat. This proved to be a very good strategy.

By 9:30, we had already arrived in Hancock MD about 2 hours ahead of schedule and had a huge breakfast at a diner we found called “The Potomac Grill”. The cool, air-conditioned restaurant was a welcome sight and the food was excellent. After breakfast/brunch, we scooted out and promptly got back to the trail.

The C&O path is heavily canopied with trees, so it helped to keep me cool. A few miles in, we arrived at Fort Fredrick and wandered around. The downside to our ‘leave extra early’ strategy was that the Fort was still closed when we arrived. So we just looked a bit and stretched our legs.

After departing the fort, we were able to join the Western Maryland Rail Trail for about 22 miles, which parallels the C&O path … but is paved! Those miles went pretty easily. The conditions on the path were a much welcomed break from the bumpy forest C&O path, but it wasn’t quite as nicely canopied, so it was a bit more hot.

A few miles later, we arrived at Little Orleans, MD. Very hot. Very sweaty. I had consumed about three quarts of Gatorade already and have drunk a fourth while sitting down.

Little Orleans is a very tiny town. I am sitting at “Bill’s”, a (the only?) local place that appears to be somewhat famous on the C&O path. People come and put dollar bills on the ceiling and stock up on everything from food, beer, worms, and local news. It has a character all its own. And it is the only place along the towpath for 20 miles in either direction! I gave Bill a dollar to post on the ceiling with my name on it, so look for it there.

As I sit here cooling off, I am really not looking forward to heading to the camp sight and setting up camp in 97 degree weather. Perhaps another bottle of water here at Bill’s would be a better idea.

Aside from the Fort, there weren’t many tourist spots along the way. Lots of pretty scenery, but not much to write about.

My upper back started hurting from where I stressed it unloading bags from the truck on Sunday. As I write this, it feels pretty sore.

I don’t have any cell signal, so I’ll post my blog and pictures later. By the time you are reading this, I’m already a day or two ahead.

Until then, keep praying for cooler weather and that my back feels better soon.

Peace & Blessings!
– Dc. Matt

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2012 Bike Sojourn – Day 3 52 miles from Brunswick MD to Williamsport MD

Last night was my first good night’s sleep in a few days, even though the campground was around 150-200 feet from a major train thoroughfare. I did hear lots of trains through the night, but they didn’t really wake me. Back when I first graduated from college, I took an apartment in an old house that backed up to some tracks. I enjoyed those trains then, and this reminded me of those days.

Sleeping weather was excellent. No rain fell on us and the temps were cool. It was very humid, so my wet laundry remained wet all night and today until we stopped here in Williamsport.

I started the day with a quick trip into Brunswick to look around, but nothing was open. The ‘Beans in the Belfry’ coffee shop is supposed to be really neat, but it was closed still. On my way out of town, I had to wait for a long coal train before I could pass back to the bike path. It was fun watching it … for a while.

Our trip was pretty nice and generally cool until lunch time. We cycled through the woods and soaked up some shade and nice breezes. At lunch, we ate next to the Potomac and chatted with some new friends. Then the heat started.

We had a 15-mile (?) detour off of the path and onto some surface streets to bypass a part of the towpath that had been destroyed by flooding. It started with a pretty aggressive climb that most people were walking their bikes up. It wasn’t too long, but my legs were burning and I was glad it wasn’t much longer!

Out of the shade, the sun was really hot. The bypass rode some pretty countryside, with some rolling hills. But after already putting in around 35-40 miles, my legs got a little rubbery on a couple of them.

We finished with several more miles back on the shady towpath and emerged next to the “Cushwa Coal” building here in Williamsport. Nearly 52 miles for the day.

This campground is very sunny. And it is H-O-T. I was so hot it was hard to concentrate on setting up camp. After getting everything situated, I went for a nice long soak in the Potomac. It was cold and felt awesome. A shower and some laundry (in the shower) completed the adventure. One good thing about the sun: my laundry will actually be dry for the first time in three days.

(paused here while I ate dinner)

Ok, did I mention it was hot? Still is at 6:15. And hotter weather is on the way.

Dinner was awesome. These people catering are doing a spectacular job. When you ride 40+ miles it is amazing how hungry you get. And the food has been very very good. Tonight, we had fresh grilled beef on skewers, served fajita style with grilled veggies and tortillas. Yum.

Probably the sightseeing hi light of the day was Harper’s Ferry WV. To get there, you have to lock up your bike and climb up some stairs to a train bridge crossing the Potomac. There is a pedestrian way on the bridge.

I probably should know more about Harper’s Ferry from History class, but I don’t recall ever learning about it. Sadly, most things were still closed, but I did walk around town for a while and decided that I should go back some day. Lots of neat old buildings and history. I’ve posted a couple of pictures from there, including the Catholic Church.

All-in-all, today has been a pretty good ride. If I could change anything, I’d just like to have some family with me, and maybe some cooler weather.

Tomorrow is a bit shorter, but high temps are expected for the next several days.

Please pray for cooler temps! Highs near 100 are predicted.

Here’s a link to today’s GPS tracks:
gps log-

Peace & Blessings!
– Dc. Matt

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2012 Bike Sojourn: Day 2

Last night was a bit rough for me. I had a very difficult time falling asleep, and it was in the very early hours before I finally dozed off. Then the rain started. The sound of rain is usually very soothing. As long as I am not getting wet and trying to get to sleep!

I did finally get a couple of hours of sleep but woke to the feeling of coldness seeping into my tent. I had not expected rain and had put the footprint a little outside of the tent. So all of the water running off the fly was pooling on the footprint and running under the tent, then soaked the tent bottom. No fun.

Morning was only slightly better. The rain paused for an hour or two and I used this time to break camp, fold up my soaking belongings, and get going.

Breakfast was good and I hit the trail fairly early, suited up for rain. It rained for largely the entire ride. Some heavy periods and some light. Combined with cool winds, it made for a chilly ride.

The C&O path is pretty rough in this stretch. Mostly packed mud, which gets really messy when it rains. One thing I have noticed is that my bamboo fenders are quite a conversation starter. Not sure why. But they were added for a purpose and today they were worth every penny. Mud covered my whole bike, but I stayed relatively mud-free.

Today we pedaled across a couple of different aqueducts and past a few neat scenes, but I didn’t linger very long in any one place because of the rain. I did go down to White’s Ferry to see the only working ferry boat on the Potomac. There is also a small general store & bait shop that has flood markings up on the 2nd floor from past floods.

I completed the 33-ish miles pretty easily, in spite of cold rain and mud, and I am hoping that my tent and sleep gear dry out enough for a pleasant night’s sleep. A warm shower helped my spirits a lot, but a good night’s sleep would be even more welcome!

Tomorrow, we go past Harper’s Ferry WV. I’d like to go into the town, if I can get there early enough.

Peace!
– Dc. Matt

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2012 Sojourn: Day 1 Washington DC to Seneca, MD

Today started by joining up with the rest of the tour group in Pittsburgh PA to drop off our cars and catch a bus, along with our bikes on a truck, to Georgetown, right outside of DC.

After arriving in DC mid afternoon, we rode a pretty easy 22 miles, finishing up at the Seneca campgrounds.

The trip hugged the Potomac River and provided many beautiful views of the river and wildlife. We are riding on the C&O canal path from here until Cumberland, MD – about 180 miles. This canal path is not paved or finished with crushed stone, and had quite a few potholes. Thank goodness it has been dry, so it wasn’t too bad today.

When I met up with the group today, I was struck at how few younger people are on the trip. I would guess the median age is around 60+. A few young kids, but not many middle-aged folks. I feel very young :). Tonight at dinner, the couple I sat next to were 77 and 80 years old! So for all of you who think you are too old to do something like this… you should reconsider!

About half way through the day, I hooked up with a nice guy named Rich and we rode the last 12 miles together. It was nice to have a little company and it made the time pass quickly.

The C&O canal is not usable for boat traffic. It is really just a historical path. Unlike the Erie Canal, the C&O has not been maintained in many years and the locks are neat to see, but not able to function due to disrepair. Most of the canal doesn’t have any water in it. Nonetheless, it provides a really nice backdrop for the ride.

I passed several lock houses that used to house the lock master and family. One was open for a tour and I stopped in to see it. Pretty neat.

I walked out to see the Great Falls of the Potomac. No wonder they needed a lock system to get around them! The pictures don’t do justice to the amount of water being forced between those rocks.

The only bad part of the day was that there was a detour off of the canal path that involved carrying my fully-loaded bike up TWO flights of stairs, then going a little, then back down two more flights. On the way down, my bike got a little ahead of me and I pulled my back trying to get control of it. I bet I’ll be feeling it tomorrow 😦

Tonight’s dinner was really good. The catering company did a great job serving up baked chicken breasts with roasted garlic cloves, fresh green beans, and chocolate cake. Not your typical camp food. Yum.

After getting my tent set up in tent-city, I took advantage of an amazing invention. The shower truck! An 18-wheeler outfitted with about 20 shower stalls and plenty of hot water. Whoever designed it should get the Nobel Prize for something.

Tomorrow, another pretty easy ride of about 33 miles. Time for bed!

Peace,
Dc. Matt

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All packed up!

Well, the big weekend is almost here!  I drive to Pittsburgh this weekend, then take a bus to DC with my bike and start riding back on Sunday morning.  I’ve trained quite a bit more than my last long-distance trip, but somehow I’m not quite feeling as confident.  Perhaps it is that I’ve done this before and now realize how tough it might get 🙂

Nonetheless, I’m looking forward to the trip and getting some beautiful views as I anticipate crossing the continental divide, seeing the Ohiopyle area of PA, and enjoying nature.  I’ll be blogging and taking pictures as much as I can during the trip.

Peace!

– Dc. Matt

My 2012 Cycling Adventure! From Washington DC to Pittsburgh

If you’ve subscribed to my blog, you know that my daughter and I cycled across New York in 2010 together.  It was probably in the top 5 things I’ve ever done in my life.  This year, I’m going to be cycling from Washington DC to Pittsburgh along the C&O Canal and Great Allegheny Passage.  Sadly, I can’t bring my youngest daughter this year, so I’m cycling and camping my way with an organized tour.

If you’d like to follow my adventures, I’ll be blogging as I go … assuming I can find enough sunshine to keep my trusty iPhone solar-charged for the 8 days of riding.

I leave on June 17, so stay tuned!

Peace & Blessings!

– Dc. Matt

Cycling the Erie Canal – Q&A, Lessons Learned

Some people may be stumbling across this blog looking to ride the canal themselves, or perhaps they’re thinking of doing their first long-distance bike trip.  I’ll share some of my thoughts and experiences.

Also, I’ve received a lot of questions from people and some are common.  I’ll put a few brief answers together here.

If you’d like to contact me about other questions or comments on the ride, please feel free to do so.  You can reach me at: matt@coriale.org.

Q: “Why go all the way to New York for this ride?  Isn’t there something close you could have done?”

A: We live in Lexington, Kentucky, so New York is quite a distance away.  I was familiar with about 30 miles of the canal path near Rochester from when I used to ride during high school and college.  As I’ve gotten older, I now strongly prefer paths to “on-road” riding for safety reasons, so the idea of a path that largely took us across the whole state was very attractive.  Also, the scenery near the canal is excellent, and the history of the canal made for an interesting backdrop of the ride.

One other consideration is that I wanted to minimize the number of hills for this ride.  The canal path, like a rails-to-trails path, is fairly flat.

Q: “Where can I get information about riding the canal?”

A: There are several decent books out there.  I skimmed a couple but only bought one: the “Cycling the Erie Canal” guidebook.  It is available at: www.ptny.org/guidebook/index.html

This book is an excellent guidebook, with lots of information about great things to see and the canal path itself.  For a trail-map, it is all you’ll need.  Note: I would definitely NOT say that it is sufficient, however, as you get into the cities and on-road segments.

On our journey, we encountered several other bikers on the trail using this same guidebook.  Everyone I talked with agreed that the city-maps were insufficient to safely navigate your way through the cities.  I very strongly recommend that if you are riding by yourself, that you obtain very detailed street directions and maps for ANY part of the trail that goes through the towns and cities, even just a few blocks.  When you get to areas where the trail ends and resumes a few blocks or miles away, the signage and marking is not very clear at all.   I can’t stress this point enough.

Having your localized maps ready for the on-road segments is crucial to making your trip more enjoyable.  Otherwise, you may end up in one of the towns hoping to run across someone who can point you in the right direction, many times over.

To be fair, the guidebook does have blow-ups of the streets for the cities.  However, the maps don’t detail many of the street names, and in some cases, the street names change along the length of it.  You also don’t have a feel for how busy these streets are from looking at the map: a quiet country road looks the same as a busy four-lane highway without shoulders.  We learned that lesson the hard way.

Q: “I didn’t realize you were a serious biker.”

A: I’m not.  Until this year, I had not ridden a bike more than 3 miles in the last 15-20 years.  I am living proof that you can get in shape, if you’re willing to put in the effort.  In fact, when we started our training in March, after our first real three mile ride, I had to sit down on the grass because I was dizzy and out of breath.  My wife came over to ask me if I was ok.  Only three miles.  We had a long way to go.

Q: How did you train?”

A:  We began in March, once the weather started getting nicer.  We rode a couple of miles at a time to learn how to ride a tandem bike, and to get in shape slowly and carefully.

Over the next few weeks, we rode a couple of miles at a time, every other day.  Then the goal was five miles at a time, every other day.  We would mix in a fun goal, like riding to McDonalds to get an ice cream cone and then home.  Soon, we were easily able to do five miles and needed to bump up our training.  As soon as AM was out of school for the summer, we started riding ten miles every other day and twenty to forty on the weekend.  Progress was very slow at first, but with persistence, we finally got ready.

In the last few weeks before the ride, we tried to ride at least five mornings each week, even if we only had time for ten miles or so.  That sounds like a lot, but ten miles goes quickly.  We also tried to ride even when the weather was bad.  This turned out to be crucial to our success, since we had learned how to deal with rain and wind.  Our second day’s ride would have been much worse if we had not learned to ride in the rain.

On one of our training rides, we found ourselves in an unexpected and very serious storm still several miles from home, with no shelter in sight.  We were prepared with emergency rain gear and rode it out to get home.  Only as we approached home did we really grasp how bad the storm was – a tree had been blown over in our neighborhood due to the winds.  God was definitely watching over us that day.

Q: “Why ride a tandem (a bicycle built-for-two)?”

A: I knew that my physical condition and my daughter’s would not be matched to each other.  On a tandem, our abilities are tied together since the two sets of pedals are physically chained together.  That was one significant factor.  The other factor is that this was about spending time together and achieving a goal together.  The tandem was the perfect opportunity to do just that.  We bought a well-used tandem to try it out.

I had never ridden a tandem before, but I’m now a tandem nut.  I have loved what it has brought to this experience and I would definitely choose to use a tandem again.  I’ve been salivating at upgrading to a nicer bike as I look towards hopefully many more years of riding with both of my daughters.  (Epilogue: I’ve completed a full rebuild of the tandem and it rides like a new bike.  Pretty much every moving part has been replaced and/or rebuilt.  What a difference that made, I wish I had done the rebuild before our ride.)

One other note about our bike choice: for the canal path, I strongly recommend a hybrid bike (a cross between a mountain bike’s robustness with a street-bike’s design).  Some parts of the path are smooth, and some parts are like riding in the woods, complete with lots of debris that you’ll ride over.  The thru-Rochester segment is probably fine with a road-bike, but once you get closer to Newark and east, I would strongly recommend against using road-bike.

I also was very relieved to be riding on Kevlar tires.  One person we’d talked to had three flats in the span of one morning.  We were fortunate to avoid any flat tires on the entire duration of the ride.

Q: Why didn’t you camp along the way?”

A: Mostly due to the planning aspects.  It might have been more cost effective to do so, but I had my hands full just planning the on-bike segments.  We have never done a long-duration bike ride before, so there was enough to learn just about the bike riding.

If we do this again, I may try to solicit help from someone to help with camping details and/or have my wife meet us each night with a pop-up trailer.

There are plenty of places you can camp or “stealth camp” in the woods.  But packing the extra weight of a tent, sleeping-bags, and such, would have required us to probably be in even better shape than we were.

One other serious consideration: a shower might seem optional until you’ve been coated in sunblock all day, caked with dirt, and smell awful.  I think the price of the hotel room may have been worth it just to get clean!

Q: What would you do differently?”

A: Many things.  That is not to say that I don’t consider this trip very successful.  The biggest thing I would do is to try to have a better set of maps and a better plan for navigating around Utica and Rome.  If we do this again, I need to find an alternate way around those two cities and/or plan to arrive at different times of the day.

I would also see about trying to start earlier each day.  We typically were on-bike around 8-9AM each day.  We rode between 4 and 5 hours each day, which still left time for some sightseeing, but not enough.  Also, the midday heat was pretty tough some days and zaps the energy out of me.  Leaving earlier each day would have really helped that a lot.

The other thing I would do is to try to find a way to start training a month or two earlier.  If we do this again, I will probably try to engage in “spinning” classes during the winter before the trip.

The last big thing I would change is to try to work in a rest-day or two, especially with younger kids.  Our abbreviated day in Utica really helped my daughter’s fatigue level.

Q: Why didn’t you just join the annual ‘Cycling the Erie Canal’ ride put on by the New York Parks and Trails ?”

A:  This tour (see: http://www.ptny.org/canaltour/) looks fabulous.  I’ve talked with some riders from this tour and they always have a great time.  I am seriously considering it for the future.  But there are a couple of reasons we didn’t join this tour: 1) they go well over 50 miles on some days.  That’s a lot for a 13-year-old.  Our rides were typically between 40 and 48 miles each day.  2) we wanted the trip to focus on our time together, not so much on a group ride.  We had an extremely peaceful ride, with very few exceptions, and this gave us the time to enjoy each other and the scenery more.  Some days, we only saw as few as four other riders the whole day of our riding.  Being on our own pace made this a very relaxing trip.

Q: Would you do it again?”

A: In a word: absolutely!  I’m already thinking about it.  My younger daughter says that she wants to do something like this when she gets a little bigger and stronger.  I don’t know if we’ll do the Erie Canal, or some other multi-day bike trip.  I’m going to keep my eyes open for other great opportunities.  The Erie was really great, but there might be other experiences out there that could be just as nice.

I hope you’ve enjoyed the blog.  With this, I am done writing about this ride and looking forward to another adventure some time in the future.

Peace.

– Dc. Matt (& AMC)

Cycling the Erie Canal – Epilogue

It’s been several days since we finished our trip.  I’ve had some time to think about the journey, and I’ve received a lot of questions and comments.  The blog has been accessed over 450 times in the last two weeks!

I don’t really remember what I expected when we first conceived of this trip.  We began planning with the end in mind: to ride the length of the Erie Canal, but the journey was always more important than what we saw.  What I will take away is that we worked as a team and really did something together, not just two people on vacation with each other.  We had to remain committed to each other or we wouldn’t have succeeded.  I will also remember that my daughter is a fantastic companion and I’m blessed to have been with her throughout all of the training and riding.  I’m also blessed to have had the unwavering support of my wife, Stephanie.

The trip still seems a bit surreal – we spent so long preparing for it that it is hard to believe it is already over.  When I stop and look at the map of New York and read my notes, the distance we covered by bicycle seems amazing to me.  I think about how many times our pedals went around.  I imagine how many people had gone before me since the 1800’s along the same path we took.  And I’ve looked over the few pictures we took to remind me of some of the great scenery we enjoyed along the way.  Since my daughter won’t be this age ever again, it was truly a “once in a lifetime” experience.  Even if we do something like this again, it won’t be the same.

My daughter and I will each take away different memories, I’m sure.  No two people will bring the same perspective to a journey like this.  Just like viewing a rainbow, our perspective changes what we see and experience.  For me, I will remember some of the great scenery, and especially the time I spent with my daughter.  Each day brought some sort of milestone that I can remember: the first day’s completion, persevering through hard rain to reach Rochester, arriving in Newark, navigating through Syracuse, being “off plan” in Rome, Utica traffic, the shrine near Amsterdam, and especially the completion of the trip in Albany.  Each day was unique and memorable.

I want to say thanks especially to my wife, Stephanie, who supported us the whole way and met up with us on most nights.  Back when we dreamed up this ride, she didn’t say “you’re crazy” (although, she did look at me a bit strangely).  When we needed help during training, she was always there.  When we needed lunch or a pickup during the ride, she was the welcome face of support.  And I can’t forget that she put up with me when I was stressed out in Rome.  Thanks, Stephanie, we couldn’t have done it without you.

Lastly, let me say thanks again to all of you who have sent me notes and prayed for our safety.  It’s been great to have so many people along for the ride with us.

With this, I bid you a farewell.

Peace & Blessings!

– Dc. Matt & AMC (My daughter)

Cycling the Erie Canal – Day 8 (updated)

Miles today: 47.44, Total miles: 306.82 (Subtitle:
We made it!) I’m
going to just leave a “pico-blog” tonight and I’ll fill in the
details from day 7 and day 8 tomorrow after I’ve gotten some rest.
We made it to Albany this afternoon after a good day of
riding. Today’s ride took us through the only gap in the
Adirondack mountains. We experienced a variety of topologies
and geographies. We rode on trails and city streets. It
was a busy day. In the end, we arrived at our destination in the
“Corning Preserve” park in Albany, NY. We were tired, but the
sense of accomplishment was fantastic. I am very proud of my
daughter. She really stuck with things helped pull me through
when we were facing into the demons. It would have been
pretty easy for us to just “bag it” and go home, but we stuck
together and helped each other get to the end. I want to thank all
of you for your emails, text messages, Facebook messages, and
prayers. Your words of encouragement are a big part of what
kept us going when it would have been easier to quit. I’ll help
fill in the cracks for the rest of the story tomorrow. Until
then, I’m sitting with my feet up, after a fantastic dinner at my
Mom’s house, ice-pack on my knee, and just enjoying the
accomplishment. Here’s a link to today’s ride: http://j.mp/bfgird Peace! –
Dc. Matt PS: For those of you wondering, my knee is doing
better. I am going to stay off the bike for a few days and
keep icing it. I’ve not really had much pain yesterday or
today, but I’m going to take it easy and let it heal up. It’s
turned a little bruise-colored :(, which is unusual for me.
That would explain why it hurt so much!
(Update to Day 8’s ride starts
here
) Today’s ride started in Amsterdam
and took us to Albany. We had yet another pancake breakfast
to carb-up for the day and headed out to the trail. We picked
up exactly where we left off the previous day. There was definitely
a sense of excitement in the air as we realized how close we
were. The weather forecast looked perfect, we were feeling
pretty good, and the vast majority of the day was on paved path – a
luxury we had really taken for granted during our training. Leaving
Amsterdam took us along the Mohawk Hudson Bikeway Trail, a trail
that is co-marked with the Erie Canal trail all the way into
Albany. The first 15 or so miles took a nice ride along the
Mohawk river, leading us into Schenectady. The trail was very
pretty and there were a few picture moments, such as a field of
flowers near US 890 as it crossed the bike path. Going into
Schenectady left us a momentarily puzzled. We emerged from
the trail near the community college, but there were bike-path
marks on the ground pointing both left and right. Luckily,
there were a couple of workers nearby and they were friendly enough
to help us with our directions. Once again, the maps from the
parks and trails NY were not really sufficient. Fortunately,
we spotted green “Bike Route” signs and proceeded to follow them,
hoping that we were following the correct bike route. It
turned out that we were. Our trip through Schenectady’s surface
streets was nice. We saw some older homes and little
Italy. We were getting hungry and the smell of fresh Italian
bread was very tempting, but we pedaled on. With a small bit
of consternation, we rejoined the bike path after a few
miles. The path was under construction and it
intersected many roads. At each road crossing, a sign on the
path said “DETOUR”, pointing us around to take surface streets
instead. Since we were not familiar with the roads and our
maps were poor, we elected to stay on the path and ignore the
warnings. This was a good choice. The path was freshly
paved and super smooth. We were afraid that we might run into
a dug-up section under construction … but we didn’t. We did
have to walk the bike around paving equipment one time, but that
was the worst of it. Then came the day’s big challenges.
Miles 23 and 24 had significant hills. These were the biggest
hills of the entire ride. One hill was so aggressive, we
eventually had to dismount and walk the bike up the last 100
feet. By the time we got to the top, my legs were spent, and
we still had nearly 25 miles to go. We took a very brief rest
and kept on going. A couple of miles later, we had the
benefit of going back downhill. Stephanie met us in a park in
Niskayuna for lunch as we prepared for the final stretch.
There was a great sign in the park that I snapped a picture
of. It said “Albany 19 miles, Buffalo 338 miles”. It
reminded us of how far we’ve come in our 8 days of travel. It
also served to motivate us: we only had about 20 miles to go! The
last 19 miles felt different. We knew the end was in sight
and we were coaxing each other on. 19 miles seemed really
easy, compared to how far we’d come. We had to navigate
surface streets in Cohoes and northern Albany for a few miles
before reaching the home stretch: the Corning Preserve park.
We had reached the Hudson River, our eastern goal, but needed a few
more miles to reach our stopping point. We dropped southbound
on the trail for five miles into the Corning Preserve. We met
a very nice man there who offered to snap our picture in front of
the sign for the park. We had arranged to meet Stephanie at the
Riverfront Bar & Grill. We
arrived before she did. We parked our trusty tandem under a
shady tree and hugged each other. I decided that it was time
for a celebration as we waited for Stephanie. I went over to
the bar and purchased myself a beer and a virgin strawberry
daiquiri for AM. We sat and enjoyed our beverages and our
accomplishment. Unfortunately, Stephanie’s GPS didn’t have the
right address for our meeting place, so it took a while for us to
connect up with her. But she eventually found us and we all
celebrated before loading the bike back up on her truck. It
was hard to believe that we were done. The distance we rode was
long for us. Sure, there are many people who ride greater
distances and farther each day than we did. But we had really
come a long way since our first training began in March. I
was very proud of how my daughter hung in there. Not too many
13-year-olds can say that they rode over 300 miles, not including
the many hundreds of miles we rode during training. The distance we
cycled really set in as we drove to my parent’s house. It
took about four hours to drive the 220 miles from Albany to Webster
– about two-thirds of the total distance we biked. We watched
out the windows of the truck as we recognized many milestones and
much of the scenery. At highway speeds, it took four
hours. At biking speed, this part of the trip took about 6 of
our 8 days. The highway is definitely faster, but the bike
gave us an opportunity to see the world a different way. It
allowed us to slow down and enjoy each others’ company. It
put us on paths that cars could not go, and allowed us to see some
beautiful things. It also opened the doors to some
fascinating history of our country’s early economic growth and
determination. I will add one more blog entry, an epilogue,
reflecting upon our trip and adding some practical aspects of
biking this path. Until then, peace. – Dc. Matt

Cycling the Erie Canal – Day 7 (updated)

Miles today: 42.76, Total miles: 259.38

What a difference a day makes. We rested yesterday and got off to a much better start today. My knee is still a little tender, but it is much better now. Still icing it down tonight.

The weather was pretty hot and most of our path today was in the sun with little shade.

Tomorrow is our last day! We expect to arrive in Albany – the destination we have been planning on. We have around 45 miles left to go, so it won’t be an easy day, but I think we’re up to it.

I am blogging from my phone tonight again, so I am going to be brief and then fill in more later.

We started at the B&B in Little Falls and wound along the countryside through several small towns to finally arrive in Amsterdam.

Along the way, we saw the homestead of general Herkimer, and we also stopped by the shrine to the North American Martyrs – a group of Jesuits who were missionaries to the native Americans in Upstate NY and brutally killed.

We had a great ride, and the end is almost in sight.

Time for sleep, I need to be ready for a strong finish tomorrow.

Here is a link to today’s ride:
http://j.mp/dc3AT3

Peace!
– Dc. Matt

(Day 7’s updates start here:)

I’m finally taking the time to write a bit more about our adventures on day 7 before they fade into the overall memories of the trip.

We spent the previous night at a B&B in Little Falls, NY.  The trail begins again in Little Falls, but we did have to put a few on-road miles together today.

The town of Little Falls is pretty small.   We had some trouble finding somewhere to eat, as everywhere we went was closed.  We finally had a pretty nice meal at the Canal Side Inn.  Not particularly cheap, but the food was pretty tasty.

The canal runs in the Mohawk river here.  Little Falls is named after a cascading set of falls that the river goes through.  It is a pretty area.  Lock #17 is here to allow boats to bypass the falls area.  Unfortunately, it looked to us like getting to the lock would require a significant walk away from the trail.  Given how late we got moving and how many miles we needed to cover, we elected to just view Lock #17 from a distance and keep on moving.  In hindsight, I wish we had taken the time.

The trip out of little falls was pretty uneventful.  We had to navigate about one mile to the trailhead, but the streets were pretty tame.   Once on-trail, we had a few miles of nice path.  Right along the path was the home of General Herkimer.  We arrived before the museum opened, so we just walked around and looked at the restored buildings from the outside and the cemetery where General Herkimer was laid shortly after the revolutionary war battle of Oriskany.

After wandering there a little while, we picked up and continued.  Most of the journey today took us very close alongside the interstate US 90.  The scenery was nice, but the traffic was loud enough to make it difficult to hear each other.  This was so much different than the peace and quiet of the forested trails we’d been on earlier.

By lunchtime, we approached the town of Canajoharie.  This is another place that I wish we had a little more time to explore.  We only saw the small sliver of the town that the path crosses through.  Canajoharie did one of the better jobs of marking the path through town and making us feel welcome.  We ran across a visitor’s booth and a very friendly worker there named Jim.  Jim answered our questions and gave us some pointers about what lay ahead.

Stephanie met us there with Subway sandwiches for lunch (Yay, Steph!).  We refueled, took advantage of the bathrooms, and got back underway.  Several more miles of trail were uneventful, taking us alongside US 90 through Fultonville, and on to the Schoharie Crossing.  This section of the trail was difficult – freshly laid crushed stone made it slow going and tiring on the legs.

After Fultonville, the trail departs from US 90 and we had a few miles of peace-and-quiet before arriving in Amsterdam.  As we were cycling along, we saw a beautiful, large, crucifix just off to our right across the street.  This was the Auriesville Shrine to the North American Martyrs (or more properly, “The Shrine of Our Lady of Martyrs”).  We called ahead to Stephanie and decided to complete our ride for the day, meet her in Amsterdam and then drive back to the shrine.  We had six more miles to go to meet her, so we picked up speed to make sure we’d have time to come back.  These last six miles went quickly.

Stephanie picked us up right along the trail in Amsterdam and we quickly returned to the shrine.  It was well worth the time.  This shrine is located in the place where a 17th century Mohawk village called Ossernenon once stood.  In this village, three Jesuit missionaries were martyred during the 1640s. The beatified “Lily of the Mohawks,” Blessed Kateri Tekakwitha, was born there in 1656.  To handle the number of pilgrims to this shrine, in 1930-31, a coliseum was built on the site that holds 6,500 people sitting and 3,500 more standing!

After spending a couple of hours at the shrine, it was time to get some rest.  The closest hotel we could find was about 20 minutes north.  We packed up the bike, went to the hotel, cleaned up, ate dinner and prepared for day 8.

Day 7 was complete, and we were feeling pretty good.

Cycling the Erie Canal – Day 6

Miles today: 14.66, Total miles: 216.62

We got off to a late start today, and it seemed that everyone was not quite in the right frame of mind. This was the day I feared: the day fatigue set in.

AM’s hands were sore, my knee was still sore, I didn’t sleep well, and everyone was on edge. We grabbed some breakfast at the hotel and headed out. After the fiasco with the maps from the day before, I elected to have Stephanie drive us the two miles to the trail head. I’m glad she did, as it wasn’t marked very well, so we had to drive around a bit until we found it.

Once on the trail, we made good speed towards Utica. We stopped at one of the locks to watch a boat lock-through and enjoyed some quiet time together.

Just a few short miles later, the trail ended at the north-west side of Utica at a very busy road. We dialed up our courage and made our way down the right lane into Utica. I didn’t realize how big the city was and how much traffic would be there.  If I had, I would have tried to plan a different route, for sure.

We had arranged to meet Stephanie at a particular hotel in downtown, so we had to find our way there. I was glad to get off of the city streets.

Given our state of mind, the traffic, and fatigue, we talked it out and decided to skip through Utica and take the rest of the day off.

We took the kids to the Herkimer Diamond Mines, which was really a good change of pace.

Our evening brought us to the town of Little Falls to eat and spend the night. The Erie Canal path starts up again here after being gone from west Utica. We should now be able to follow it all the rest of the way into Albany.

So, we took a mostly restful day today. We needed it. We are going to try to get back on-pace tomorrow to be able to finish on Thursday.

My knee is a bit better today, and didn’t hinder the cycling, but as we sat for dinner, it became sore again. More ice tonight and we will see if it is good enough to ride tomorrow.

Here’s a link to today’s ride: http://j.mp/8Zd0XV

Peace!
-Dc. Matt

Cycling the Erie Canal – Day 5

Miles today: 41.50, Total miles: 201.96

We woke up well rested and ready to go today.  My knee was very stiff, but a few stretching exercises seemed to loosen it up.  Ibuprofen: check.  Gatorade: Check.  Maps: Check.  Sunblock: Check. Breakfast: sorta-check.

The Econo Lodge advertised breakfast.  If you can call toast, OJ, pre-packed muffins, rice krispies, and raisin bran a continental breakfast, I guess they offered breakfast.  They certainly put the “Econo” in lodging 🙂  On the plus-side, our room was clean and I slept like a rock.

We only had a couple of miles of Syracuse streets to go, so we packed up the bike and took off at 8:15 AM, confident that we’d get to Rome by early afternoon.  My knee was not feeling great, but after a couple of miles, it was not too bad.

We had looked over the maps the night before and wanted to see a boat-building museum that we thought was in a town called Canastota, so we planned that as our lunch destination.  As we pedaled our way along, we went through Chittenago at around 9:45AM.  We went right past the boat museum, not knowing that we had read the information wrong.  This was a bit of a disappointment when we arrived in Canastota and realized we’d missed the museum.  My knee was too sore to justify adding 12 miles to go back to Chittenago.  We’re considering driving back to the museum to see it.

We arrived in Canastota, half way through today’s journey, at 10:15 and nothing was open.  Zippo.  Nada.  We had to wait until 11:00 to get anything to eat, so we pulled up under a tree and enjoyed the shade.  It was a beautiful morning and we were loving it.  One of the locals came and joined us.  At 11:00, the Chinese restaurant opened and we ordered a hot lunch to fill our hungry bellies.

The rest of the trip today was not nearly as fun as the first half.  My knee was beginning to swell up and worry me a bit.  On top of all that, trail conditions were spotty.  There were several places where we ditched the trail in favor of a country road or two that paralleled the path.  Some of the path seemed so well groomed that we knew it had to be fresh: smooth, even, wide, no weeds.  Unfortunately, the tires seemed to really sink in a bit – it was very very slow going on this new trail base.

We also ran into a closed section of the path.  Surprise!  It turns out we caught up to the maintenance crews that had spread down the sections we’d slugged through for a few miles.  Ugh.  Fortunately, we were able to get on route 46 for the last few miles and then turned north to lock 21.  When we got to the lock, there was a road crew working on the other side.  We struck up a brief conversation when one of the workers ironically asked how we liked the fresh trail a few miles back.  I explained how it had bogged us down so badly and he took a keen interest and made a phone call.  He told us that he was part of the crew that had laid this part of the trail last week.  Kudos to him for taking our opinions seriously.

After about a mile of asphalt paved path (yeah!), we were back into the woods on old path.  The rest of the trip today was pretty unpleasant.  We had picked out another museum to see: the Erie Canal museum in Rome.  We arrived on the bike and found not a single peep of life.  Everything was closed up.  We did manage to take a picture of an empty canal boat that you can get rides on.  Worse yet, apparently, we were supposed to divine some way of seeing that we should get off of the canal path there and move to surface streets.

After spending about 2 minutes looking at the closed museum, we got back on the bike and continued down the path.  This turned out to be a very bad choice.  A little ways in, the vegetation started to crowd the path and the surface started to resemble something more like a mountain-bike trail.  Deep potholes, big rocks, and mud.  We geared down and rode our trusty tandem around these hazards with only a couple of hard bumps.  I was very thankful for buying the expensive Kevlar-jacketed tires, too.  I finally saw a place to jump out and didn’t much care where it took us.  It popped us out right at a very busy street on the west edge of Rome, NY.  We played “frogger” to get across the street, and felt lost.  Oh, did I mention that the maps from the NY Parks … oh yeah, never mind, sorry to be so negative here.

We made a quick decision to pedal 2 blocks north just to escape the very aggressive traffic.  This was no place for a bicycle!  We ended up in an old neighborhood and I called in my lifeline: Stephanie.  I was frustrated with the maps and had no idea how to get to the destination we had previously decided.  Worse yet, Stephanie and I were not thinking of the same meeting place – there were two “#4” icons on the map: she was thinking one of them, I was thinking the other.  (PS: Stephanie, you’re awesome for putting up with my stressed out frustration).    I just decided to go forward, looking for *any* street that was marked on my map to see if I could get my bearings.  There were none.  About a mile later, we found ourselves right at the Fort Stanwix museum.  This was a good meeting place that Stephanie could find.  I declared us “done” for the day.

While we were waiting for Stephanie, a nice young lady came up, clearly biking a distance.  4 panniers, tent, and the works.  She had a trailer en-tow with two really nice dogs in it.  She was loaded up ready to camp her way across the country.  She was following the same maps I was, in reverse, to get across New York, on her way crossing the country to the west coast.  Her next stop was almost exactly where we had left this morning, so we shared some information about the route and commiserated about how poor the maps were for the on-road portions of the trip.  She’d been lost in Rome for a while already and was frustrated with the maps, too.

Stephanie arrived, picked us up, and whisked us away to our hotel for the night.  I think it is a great gift that God has given her the temperament to put up with me, and I certainly thanked both of them for this gift today.  I was not in a good mood at all and she bore the brunt of it.  (Sorry!)

After a shower, we grabbed some food at a local restaurant.  As I sat still for the first time today, I became acutely aware that something was not right with my knee.  By the time dinner was over, it was clear that we might need to stop riding for a while.  What started as a minor nuisance has turned into a swollen knee that doesn’t bend very well.

This brings me to one of the hardest decisions I’ve had in quite some time.  Should we stop the trip?

With very great disappointment, we’ve started discussing our options: continue through, abort the trip, take an extra day for rest to see what happens, or stop for a while and come back here to finish up in the future some day.  We’re going to have to make that decision tomorrow.  Please help us pray for wisdom in our discernment.  We’ve come so far that I can’t imagine not finishing.  We’ve been through the hardest part!  We’ve trained hard for months, committed ourselves, and planned everything out.  Not only that, we’ve already done over 200 miles.  Most importantly, I don’t want to let AM down, but I also want her to see how we have to trust in God’s Wisdom as well.

As I write, my knee is very sore and stiff.  Stephanie says it looks very swollen.  I’ve been icing it all evening again and hoping that tomorrow brings better news.  It is out of my hands, and time to surrender this decision.

Here’s a link to today’s ride: http://j.mp/arJoYG

Peace,
Dc. Matt